Last weekend: I attend the literary festival, Wordstock. As
Lemony Snicket/Daniel Handler recounts how he always jots random things in his
journal, I think it would be fun to peer into his journal. Sheepishly, I think
of my own journal/s which travels everywhere with me, but has not encountered
any ink to paper activity for months and months.
I pull it out. I decide to jot down some of the interesting quotes
flying around me. (I don’t). However I flip the journal open to an entry
exactly a year ago. At a tuna auction. At the Tsukiji Fish Market. In Tokyo. Before
sunrise, on a cold fall morning.
I read it. It makes me laugh. It has a rather Mary Poppinsish,
“Anything can happen if you let it…”(broadway version) feel to it.
It’s a silly little story, but one that makes me feel that
life is easy. That it is okay to remain open and to go with the flow. That clearings
happen.
Today, I cannot relate to the person whose journal entry I
read. I am in a different frame of mind. The one that stares at me from my
journal is a moment of staying open, taking chances, without any expectations, with
optimism, with a let-see-where-this-goes, without a negative thought.
But first, let me tell you this silly story.
The Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo is quite a tourist
attraction. The tuna auction each day at the crack of dawn, draws hundreds of
tourists, but only two batches of 60 each, are allowed in. The line starts
winding around 3 a.m., folks receive a bib, and the batch they will join. They will
then doze and chat with other bleary-eyed tourists in the waiting room till their
tour at 5:25 or 5:45 a.m., when they are taken in a single file, escorted by
security, to the largest tuna auction in the world.
On the auction warehouse floor, huge tuna fish are inspected
as carefully as a FabergĂ© egg being auctioned off at Sotheby’s. Flashlights
shine into their gaping mouths, pickaxes poke into the bodies of giant
defenseless bodies in neat rows on the floor. Thin cuts of meat are displayed,
a small part of the fish is cut for perusal. The scrutiny is complete. The
auction is serious. Bells ring. Bids are made. There are wins. There are
losses.
Our first morning in Tokyo, my daughter and I are up at 4 a.m.
The window sill on the 28th floor is the perfect seat. We squish
ourselves between the pane and behind the curtains, trying to keep the room
dark for my husband who (of course) is fast asleep. I stare at the neon lights
of Tokyo, my tween texts her friends on a different continent. “Let’s go to the
Tsukiji Fish auction”, I suggest.
“Hmmm… do you know how to get there?” eyes don’t leave the device.
My turn to look into my device. I decide it may be better to get more information
before the two of us hit the streets of Tokyo in the dark.
“How about we go there tomorrow if we’re still jetlagged and
wake up early?” “Okay,” she murmurs.
Next day: I’m the
only one wide awake at 4 a.m. I decide to go to the Tsukiji market. I get ready
before I can change my mind, and quietly ask my kid who isn’t fast asleep if
she wants to go. She doesn’t. I poke my husband and tell him I’m leaving for
the fish market. He is too sleepy to ask questions. He has a meeting at 9 a.m.
I tell him I’ll be back before then and if not, our kid can stay in the hotel
room by herself. I don’t allow even an ounce of doubt to shake my plan. The
fish market jaunt is anything but important. But in that moment I decide to not
allow any of the usual inane considerations to shake my resolve.
I bounce out of the room, with my bag, metro card, broken
Japanese and my best spirit of adventure. At the hotel lobby, I ask about Metro
stations. The guys suggests taking a taxi waiting outside. I ask if it is safe
at this hour. He nods, smiles and tells me this is Japan. I feel safe and grateful.
I am excited to be in the cab, to have ventured out, in the
dark, to a place my husband and kid have no interest in (not sure I would have intentionally
woken up early for this, but it seems like a fun thing to do since I am already
up). I am happy to not have hummed and hawed and created obstacles of my own.
I arrive to find a sign on the booth saying the auction
tours are full. I suppose I am disappointed. But not completely. I am still really
excited to be there that early. I decide to explore on my own even if I can’t see
the auction.
I wave and smile at the person behind the counter. For some
reason, he opens it. He points to the sign that says “full”. I nod and in my
broken Japanese attempt to ask if I can walk around the fish market, if other
parts are accessible. Ahem… at least I think
that’s what I ask. Who knows what I actually say!
The guy looks at me, shakes his head and laughs. “hitotsu
desu ka?” (just one/ by yourself?) he asks. I nod and say “hai, so desu” (yes).
He stands up, opens the door and hands me a bib. I look in confusion. I have no
idea the bib is for the tour. I am not expecting to join the tour. The sign in
front of me says it is full. He points to a door and says something (I don’t
understand), looks at my puzzled face, laughs and shoos me away.
By then, it slowly sinks in. A couple of tourists smoking
outside the waiting room watch our exchange. One of them tells me I am
incredibly lucky. “I must be,” I tell him, but again, such things never happens to me. I say maybe there
is only one spot. The guy tells me he saw many single folks being turned away. “Maybe
none of them had a smile like yours,” teases his friend. I beam even more
foolishly, I suppose. But who cares. I want to skip with delight.
The morning is magical. My feet won’t touch the ground, else
the magic may disappear. After the auction, I walk around the narrow streets
that are slowly waking up. Storekeepers open shop. I buy umeboshi plums and
seaweed. I sample new things. I get the freshest-sushi-in-the-world for
breakfast. The tuna-on-a-stick, all lit up, before I eat it, is fabulous.
I have a feeling that nothing can ever go wrong. I can’t remember
the last time I felt this way. What a gift it is to feel so. To feel like you
are somehow responsible for creating a clearing. Like when on a highway, you
want to move fast, and the cars in front of you change lanes magically to allow
you to pass.
I walk to the Metro station, I see a large beautiful shrine.
I walk in. Gongs sound and morning chantings commence. Vibrations bounce of the
walls, straight into my insides. More magic. I want this day to never end.
Oddly, I feel as if I have something to do with it all. Or
rather, I do not create any obstacles. That my lack of negativity, or disappointment
or heightened expectation, allow it to happen. That I am able to receive and appreciate
beautifully. That the Universe is trying to help me get the things I want, get
where I want. Ahem… the fish market is great, but again, I need to have a chat
with the Universe – there are other waaaaaay more important things on my plate.
Really. Truly.
I may be closed and clamped up again, today. But reading the journal entry and writing about
it makes me believe that sometimes
the path ahead just clears for us... if we allow it... if we simply decide to
walk on it...if we decide we deserve to...if we own up to our dreams (big and
small), with a certain confidence and certainty and lack of worry and fear
and expectation…
And now, just
like Mary Poppins, I will open my umbrella and fly away – but with a torched tuna-on-a
-stick in my hand.
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